The production of Xiangyunsha (Fragrant Cloud Silk)

The production of Xiang yun sha, or Fragrant Cloud Silk, is a time-honored craft renowned for its complexity and precision. The dyeing and finishing process consists of over thirty steps, often summarized as “three washes, nine boils, and eighteen suns.”

Gambier (Shuliang)

The primary dye for Xiangyunsha is extracted from the roots and rhizomes of the gambier plant. The juice, red and sticky, adheres to the silk fibers and interacts with them, subtly altering the fabric’s structure.

Detailed Process of Xiangyunsha Production

Soaking in Gambier Water

Bundles of silk, each with 40 to 50 segments, are soaked in the most concentrated gambier water, called "first soak water." The silk is hand-flipped to ensure complete saturation, a process lasting around half a day. The gambier paste, prepared in bamboo baskets, produces varying strengths of soak water, from "first soak" to "fourth soak." These are stored in wooden barrels for future use.

Sun Drying

Once soaked, the silk is drained and laid flat on grass, pinned down with bamboo pegs to prevent curling. Left to dry under the sun, the fabric absorbs the heat for several hours.

 

Sprinkling Gambier Water

After the silk dries, it is sprinkled with "second soak water" using a specialized bucket. A palm-leaf broom is then used to spread the liquid evenly across the fabric. This step is repeated six times to ensure uniformity.

 

Mud Application

Before dawn, river mud is mixed into a paste and evenly applied to the silk. The fabric is then folded and left on the grass to dry for about half an hour. During this time, the interaction between the mud and the gambier dye’s tannins triggers a chemical reaction, transforming the silk into a deep, rich black. The iron-rich mud from the Pearl River, combined with the tannins, gives the silk its unique Xiang Yun Sha character.

 

Silk Washing

Following the mud application, the silk is washed in a nearby river to remove all mud residue. It is then laid out on grass to dry under the morning sun, resulting in a shiny black finish.

 

Evening Dew Absorption

After 20 to 30 hours of continuous sunlight, the silk is still stiff due to the gambier dye. To soften it, the silk is spread on dew-covered grass for about 40 minutes. This “evening dew absorption” softens the fabric and completes the drying process, which lasts about five days.

 

Silk Rolling and Storage

Once the dyeing is complete, Xiangyunsha is stored for 3 to 6 months before further processing. The lengthy production cycle, which can take nearly a year, often discourages many brands from working with Xiang yun sha products.

 

A Heritage of Craftsmanship

Xiang yun sha represents a craft passed down through generations, embodying the wisdom and dedication of artisans. In our fast-paced world, it encourages us to slow down and appreciate its unique charm and warmth, unveiling the elegance and romance of Eastern traditions.

 

Applications of Xiang yun sha

Due to its intricate production process, Xiang yun sha remains a luxury in modern society. Clothing and accessories made from this fabric are considered works of art, admired for their beauty and superior craftsmanship.