| Deciding factor | Sha (gauze) | Chou (satin) |
|---|---|---|
| Light through it | passes through, weave visible | blocks, hard line at fold |
| Air | open interlacing | closed face |
| Weight range | light to medium | medium to heavy |
| Drape behaviour | stands away from the body | hangs close, folds stay |
| Sewing tolerance | frays, needs finishing | stable, forgiving |
| Typical use | summer outer, layering | dresses, light outerwear |
| Wet care | dry flat, handle wet with care | dries firm, press from matte side |
Decision rule
Choose the gauze when the piece is meant to move air and light — summer outer layers, screens, anything worn over something else. Choose the satin when the piece needs body and a defined fold, and when the maker wants a cloth that will not fight the machine. Many first orders start with the satin for that second reason alone.
All figures on this page are illustrative sample values, not measured specifications.
Can one style mix both bases?
Yes, and it is a real design move: a satin body with gauze panels. The two shrink and take press differently, so sample it; do not assume the same seam allowance works on both.